Practicum at Pastourelle: Day 3 - I Love What Most Hate! + Let the Designing Commence!

First I must start off my saying that Day 3 at Pastourelle was very informative and enriching. Though the office was a little busy that day, as the holiday had ended and things were in a bit of a tizzy due to being full force into the Spring 2013 line, it was still a great time.

So first off, Fran hadn't gotten in yet, so Susan and Julia had to figure out what we would do in her absence. It was decided that we would learn a bit about patternmaking, tech packs and specs. I jump at the opportunity, because even though everyone in the world hates tech packs and specs, I honestly don't! Call me crazy, but though they are time consuming, they are very VERY important aspects to a successful season. A good spec and tech pack means accuracy and specifics. They must be picked through with a fine tooth comb in order to make them the most efficient possible. 

To others ache and dismay, I actually enjoyed my Apparel Data Management class in 4th semester and came out of there with an awesome tech pack. I like specs because I think in a very flat and number oriented way when it comes to fashion (this is why I prefer flat patternmaking to draping). 

And guess what? Those kind of people ar every valuable in the industry because we are very few and far between! I feel good about that.

Our first sit down was with Masako, who is in charge of doing the tech packs for approved samples. What she does is takes the approved samples, sketches them in illustrator, and points out every technical detail needed in order to get a garment from the overseas factories exactly the same as their in house approved samples. Since production is oversea, and thusly the seamstresses and production management teams do not speak english as their native tongue, picture based explanation is stressed highly. Masako explained that she likes to make her sketches as simple as possible to understand; calling out the more advanced design aspects separately and written out in the simplest understandable way, yet also balancing with being as specific as can be. Not easy! 

I marveled at the realistic characteristics of Masako's Illustrator dress sketches and only hope that I could draw them that well myself one day. My Illustrator skills aren't terrible, but I do still wish they were better. The pleats, gathers, and tucks looked so real and nice. I feel when I draw computer flats they look rigid and not as pretty as when I draw flats in pencil and ink—something not done in the children's wear industry at all, meaning I must transition! And fast! I'm remaining optimistic though, I think I will try using a tablet and see if my line quality improves. I want to do my best flats work when I create my styles for this presentation!

Next off we went with Linda, the head of specs and pattern, with years and years of industry experience, to learn the ropes on computer patternmaking and spec standards. Yes, we'd been told that Linda can be quite a character, but I found her to be knowledgable and entertaining! (Never judge another person by what another person says but by your own personal experience, I must always remember this!) 

Linda works on the Lectra Computerized Patternmaking System to do the company patterns. Similar to the Gerber system we learned in school. It can be a little funky at times, but it saves loads of time and effort from actual flat pattern (not that flat pattern isn't also valuable.) She showed us a bit about that, and then she went into great detail about specs for all the size ranges, variables in sizes from company to company, the funky stuff about company standards, and her own preferences and personal experience.  So far I've found her info to be the most important that I have learned so far, and I mean that. 

See, I love designing, I love all the creative aspects of fashion, and of course in Children's Wear especially, but realistically, I see my ideal job coming out of FIT to be something involving pattermaking and specs. I almost went into the Technical Design major after I finished my Associates in Fashion Design, but I ultimately decided against it because I felt I would become a little bored. I think I found the right balance in Children's Wear, being that it's hugely flat pattern based, spec stressed, and technical (despite what could the common misconception), yet fun, interesting, and easy for me to design for aesthetically—solidifying again why I feel like I've finally found my place in the industry.

During Linda's "lecture" as it may, we were "lucky enough" to witness an actual flub, in which spec perfection did not mean garment perfection. It seems that there was some miscommunication with the sample makers and in turn the size 3T dress sample had to be rejected. Stressful of course for Linda, which she wasn't afraid to show! But it comes with the job. In the end, garment perfection is a team effort. 

My, my, that was long, but that was only the first half of my post!

The end of the day was simple. Fran finally made it in the office around 12:30, a half hour before we were supposed to go. We quickly set up in the showroom to show her our previous semester work, mood pages and color stories that we'd worked on the previous week. She was thrilled with both of our ideas even though I could tell she was probably a bit slighted and busy. Nonetheless, I was flattered by her likeness to my older design projects and her love for both of my themes and color stories. She tweaked a bit, told me a few colors to add and omit, and just like that it's time to get designing!

I have a few things in mind for my collections already and I can slowly see things taking shape. I love designing girls dresses!

I think I will be keeping my size range around Toddler to 6X, though I know the company goes up to 14, I feel that Toddler to 6X is more my strong suit, and my themes will probably work better with that age range.

Some tentative ideas...

MARIONETTE MASQUERADE

For Pippa and Julie

Japanese Alternative Band Kokusyoku Sumire 

• Figures drawn as marionette dolls on strings, possibly on a stage.
• Elaborate hair and hair accessories (bonnets!) not to be produced but to lend to the overall aesthetic charms.
• Use of decadent fabrics: taffeta (my favorite fabric!), sparkle tulles, chiffon, cotton sateen, organza, harlequin print, etc.
• Basic color story: Dark blue, burgundy, rose pink, dark pink, ivory, dusty blue, black, metallic gold and silver.
• Full and fluffy dress silhouettes, babydoll cuts, puffed sleeves, intricate lace and trim details, tiers and overlays.

CLARA'S CHRISTMAS DREAM

For Marmellata

• Figures drawn as ballerinas, or in ballet-esque poses, also possibly on a stage (to tie things together a bit maybe?)
• Hair and Accessories: Simple curls and updos, snow crowns, wintery floral arrangements, tbc...
• Key look: The Ballerina Dress - Best Pastourelle seller for countless seasons and popular in every design market for every customer. I shall take this classic silhouette and add my own touch.
• Fabrics: Tulle, tulle, tulle! How can you have ballerinas without it? Also chiffon and organdie, silk satin, etc.
• Basic color story: Dusty winter pinks, ivory, christmas red, various shades of snowy blues, greys, and a touch of black.

I must end every post this way but, I'm excited to design! I'm starting Saturday. I will also collect some more fabrics from other various sources other than the ones I've collected from the in house stash. 

We won't be returning to the company for 3 weeks time, so Susan scheduled us to come in on October 4th to show our thumbnail designs and finalized mood pages, and once those are approved it will be smooth seas hopefully! I can't wait for that so I can start drawing out my girls.

I'm really happy about all of this and I want to create the best work ever!

I also hope to actually make some of the dresses I designed, but not now, later of course!

Until next time...!

Practicum at Pastourelle: Day 2 - Finalizing ideas...

Day 2 at Pastourelle was really excellent. I feel extremely confident about what I'm doing and I hope to make it the absolute best possible! 

So that day both me and Casey pitched our ideas for our Holiday 2013 collections to Susan and began thumbing through Pantone color books to work on color stories for each of the collections. Susan gave a lot of input as to what direction we should be going in for each customer (that being the Pipa and Julie higher end customer and the Marmelatta lower end customer).

We also had a quick look at the current Holiday 2012 dresses about to hit stores, which were just glorious! I loved them all. Very inspiring!

Okay so Susan loved my previously discussed theme of Marionette Masquerade and deemed it appropriate for the Pipa and Julie line. The underlying and indirect influences include Rococo aesthetics, Japanese alternative trends, general influence of the Theater (magic and mystery), and of course marionette puppets. Sounds like a lot when written, but trust me its a lot simpler than it seems as all of these can be easily combined under one theme! I can see it already...

Sneak peek~

A little idea of where I'm going with my color story and fabrications...

This image was from the Phantom of the Opera. 

My second inspiration is The Nutcracker, and it will be entitled Clara's Christmas Dream, for the Marmelatta line. The theme is a little more simplistic, which Susan agreed was a good idea as it will be easily understandable to the lower end customer; classic story that everyone knows. 

So of course there will be a wintery and Christmasy color story, ballet influences, such obvious things, but of course I'm not going for the obvious but the extraordinary. Lower end dresses can nonetheless be just as beautiful as higher end ones. 

Susan stressed to us not to worry too much about price points as to let it hinder our designs. I want to keep it considerable, but I won't skimp on the details in order to cut costs (because that's not the real intention here!) It's best for us to do what we want and have the costing comes second (that's how Fran usually does it, and the company as a whole, they create something amazing and figure out the costing later, and in turn try to get it done no matter what.)

For next week we'll have our Mood Themes and tentative Color Palettes for Fran to inspect, tweak, improve, and approve. Soon after that I will not waste any time to get to designing. I'm prepared to crack out dozens of dresses for each line for review. I can draw girls dresses forever and it's rare I run out of ideas! Maybe I have to many. Especially for holiday, definitely my strong suit.

When I say I'm most excited about this project out of everything else, I really mean that. This is what I do best and I really want to make that apparent. 

And even more exciting is the notion that after the project is complete and everything is finalized, Fran may even chose some of our designs for the production line! Susan told us of how that happened for previous practicum students and I swear my eyes must have lit up golden with glee. I would just be at the highest level of accomplishment to see a dress that I designed hanging in a store, any store, and to see a sweet little girl wearing my dress. I really would just cry of joy! My ultimate dreams would be reality at that point and then there will be no doubt in my mind that I was born for this industry. 

Pardon my dramaticness, but yea I'm excited!

I'm looking forward to next week!

Practicum at Pastourelle: Day 1 - My First Day at Pastourelle

I have to say, my first day at Pastourelle was quite great. The day started off rather dreary as it was raining and humid, not good for a first day anywhere I must admit. Anyway, I arrived at the office promptly at 10pm as I was expected. I tried my best not to be nervous, and being there in the past with Professor Seggio and the rest of the class certainly made it a little easier on me. 

Once I walked into the glass doors I was eagerly greeted by Susan and Julia, and then Fran, and of course also Casey who is with me there. It was a warm and happy welcome and my nervousness was easing. 

Julia took us around the office and showed us around, as well as introduced us to some of the staff, some familiar faces I did recognize from the last visit. Since the office is small, I doubt it will be difficult to find my way around, the only difficulty of course would be that with such a small space, things can get a little crazy! But nothing I'm nto used to as a creative person myself, my room is always a mess all the same!

So after the introductions, we sat down with Fran, Susan, and Julia, who began explaining exactly what we are there to achieve with Practicum. Fran asked us what we hoped to gain from our time there, and I responded by emphasizing my interests in patternmaking and technical aspects of the industry and dressmaking, to her immediate elation! I know lots of students dont like patternmaking or tech packs and specs, but I actually do. That will be very valuable t me in the future I know it!

So, after that little chat, we got down to business. Fran and Susan broke down the final project that we were each going to be responsible for, the breakdown is this:

Two collections for Holiday 2013

• One collection for Pipa and Julie and the other for Marmellata.
• Our ultimate goal is to design and market each collection appropriately for its target customer and price point.
• The collections should reflect our personal design styles as well as the Pastourelle aesthetic.
• Mood, Theme, and Color Story presented in a creative, clear, neat, and dynamic matter.
• 10 - 12 Dresses per collection rendered on figures, on flats, or both.
• One tech pack for one style from each collection.

I've already come up with one theme for the Pipa and Julie Collection

Its tentative title...

Marionette Masquerade

Some images reflecting the theme so far...

 

Basically is a theme based on the decadence of Victorian marionettes mixed with that of a masquerade ball, that or Masquerading Marionettes themselves. I admit somethings make more sense in my mind than they do in words (haha), but for now this works. I will be reviewing my ideas with Susan and Julia next week and eventually also with Fran (she won't be in next week). 

I haven't conceptualized the second collection yet, I'm uncertain if the themes remain the same or are they different, I need to be clear on that, but it's still early in the stages and I'm not pulling my hair out quite yet!

Also I should mention, that while we were there, we were given the chance to swatch from their huge collection of fabrics! Sounds like a dream, but it was actually very overwhelming; there was just so much stuff! I managed to pick a few nice things I liked, and several that I feel will work well with this concept I've come up with. I'd like to encompass lots of silks and taffetas, sparkly tulle overlay fabrics, lots of glitz and intricacy. For color, I see lots of reds, blues, and purples, maybe some green? Lots of gold and silver. I'm excited to see all of this come to life!

And with that, the day ended rather quickly and we were able to leave 30 minutes early. It was a real breath of fresh air, and I hope for the best to continue as I spend my time here. I can only see good things in the future, and what I can ultimately hope for in an internship and a career in the near future.

Until next week~